Double Barrel Taxidermy - Recently Updated Pages

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fleshnertaxidermy — Mon, 18 Aug 2008 16:12:19 CDT

We are once again taking in work this season.

Hello, my name is James Fleshner, but you can call me Jim. I have owned my own taxidermy business for three years now with over 6 years experience.

We would like to take this opportunity to thank you for visiting our website, please enjoy. Double Barrel taxidermy is located in Effingham, Illinois. At Double Barrel Taxidermy we take great pride in each and every mount that we do so you, the customer will be proud to display your trophy for years to come. We treat every mount as if it were our own! We use only the highest quality materials, including eyes, forms, paints and tanning chemicals to ensure the best results for your trophy. We would like to encourage everyone to take a look at our Photo Gallery to see the great care to detail that we put into every mount. If you have any questions, please feel free to give us a call. We would love to hear from you.

Gift Certificates now available call for details.

Thanks,
Jim

WHITETAIL DESIGNER SYSTEMS

Hide Tanning and Taxidermy

Quality Taxidermy Supply

REAL DEER FORMS

Whitetail Deer Taxidermy Reference Photos

Pricing

fleshnertaxidermy — Sat, 16 Aug 2008 13:56:30 CDT

*Mammals*	*Shoulder Mount*	*Life size*
Antelopes	$250.00	$1000.00
Badger	N/A	$250.00
Beaver	$175.00	$300.00
Bison	$1000.00	$5500.00
Black Bear	$250.00	$700.00 & up
Boar	$250.00	$700.00 & up
Caribou	$500.00	$3000.00
Coyote	$175.00	$300.00
Deer buck (wt/mule)	$275.00	$1200.00
Deer doe	$200.00	$1000.00
Deer fawn	N/A	$250.00
Elk	$500.00	$3000.00
Fox(red or gray)	$150.00	$250.00
Moose	$700.00	$3500.00
Otter	N/A	$250.00
Squirrel	N/A	$150.00
Raccoon	$150.00	$250.00








*Fish*
Largemouth Bass	$8.00 per in.	$150.00 min
Bluegill	$15.00 per inch	$100.00 min
Crappie	$15.00 per inch	$100.00 min

*All other species call for pricing*
Price don't include habitat or base work
Pricing on mammal are closed mouth prices. For open mouth mounts additional $50.00

Fish Photo Gallery

fleshnertaxidermy — Thu, 07 Aug 2008 17:52:44 CDT

Type your photo caption or credit here.	Large mouth Bass	Brown Trout
Type your photo caption or credit here.	Largemouth Bass leaping out of the water.	Rainbow trout
Bluegill	Type your photo caption or credit here.	Type your photo caption or credit here.

Contact us

fleshnertaxidermy — Thu, 07 Aug 2008 17:39:45 CDT

Double Barrel Taxidermy

Email: doublebarreltaxidermy@yahoo.com

James Fleshner
14094 E. 1800th Ave.
Effingham, IL. 62401

Cell phone (217)663-8225

My Diploma

fleshnertaxidermy — Sat, 22 Sep 2007 12:31:11 CDT

There is no abstract available for this page revision.

Novelty Item Photo Gallery

fleshnertaxidermy — Sun, 29 Jul 2007 15:03:28 CDT

Type your photo caption or credit here.	European mount not on plaque yet
Finished european mount	Another skull mount	Type your photo caption or credit here.
Type your photo caption or credit here.	Type your photo caption or credit here.	Type your photo caption or credit here.

Game head Photo Gallery

fleshnertaxidermy — Sun, 15 Jul 2007 19:09:18 CDT

Type your photo caption or credit here.	Whitetail Buck Deer	11 point Buck

Whitetail open mouth	Whitetail doe	9 point buck

Elk Bull

Mammels Photo Gallery

fleshnertaxidermy — Sun, 15 Jul 2007 10:40:19 CDT

Coyote

Cotten Tail Rabbit
Striped Skunk
Fox Squirrels

Taxidermy preping

fleshnertaxidermy — Sat, 07 Oct 2006 22:22:46 CDT

Important Information Regarding Your Mount!

Game Mounts

Please call us for skinning information to provide you with quality work. Bring in as much of the mounts skin with the head as you can. DO NOT CUT THE NECK! If possible, please bring in the game within 48 hours of killing. Keep as cool as possible. Do not salt cape or hides! Take pictures of your trophy so we can enhance the original look to keep your memory alive. Try to give us different angles of the animal.

Fish, Birds and Small Animals

Please do not skin these mounts. Handle with care and freeze if needed to keep fresh for taxidermy. Call for proper handling tips. Close-up photos of fish are extremely helpful. Handle fish carefully to protect scales. Skinning Animals For Mounting

Shoulder Mounts

DO NOT CUT THE THROAT! Make first cut down the back of the neck as shown in the diagram to the below.

Shoulder mount skins should be cut off well behind the forelegs. DO NOT LET SKIN AIR DRY! Put head and skin in ventilated cloth bag (do not use a plastic bag). Freeze or keep as cool as possible. DO NOT SALT SKIN!

Rug and Large Life-size Mounts

Make first cut, approximately 4" from tip of chin for rug mount or 12" from tip of chin for life-size mount, down body length to the end of the tail.

Second cut starts at the inside of feet and proceeds down the inside of legs to meet first cut down body length. Skin animal, leaving the head and feet in skin. Take final care of the skin as in the Shoulder Mount instructions.
R & R Taxidermy uses only quality products, techniques, and the best tannery to
"KEEP YOUR MEMORY ALIVE"!

Questions? Email us: jfleshner_99@yahoo.com

Field Care

fleshnertaxidermy — Sat, 07 Oct 2006 22:21:24 CDT

	Field Care GAME HEADS 1. If you intend to mount the trophy you are hunting, obviously you would not shoot the beast in the neck or facial area. And more importantly, DO NOT CUT THE THROAT. I have always been amazed by the fact that so many hunters feel the need to cut the throat of the animal and then expect their Taxidermist to give them a high quality mount. The quality of the finished mount depends a great deal upon you and the care it was given in the field. 2. If you do not know how to cape out the animal, take it to your local processor and they should know how to properly cape it out. Or, take the entire animal to your Taxidermist and have him cape it out for you. One important note; it is always better to have too much skin than not enough. So, if in doubt, take more than you'll think you'll need. 3. Avoid excessive dragging of the animal on the ground. This will damage the hair. 4. Get the cape on ice as soon as possible and remember to keep it dry. 5. If you can't get it to the Taxidermist immediately and choose to store it in your freezer for the time being, wipe as much blood as possible from the hair and keep it as dry as possible. Moisture and bacteria will cause the hair to fall out of the cape. Double bag the head and tape the bag around the antler burrs or horn bases to prevent air from entering the bag and causing freezer burn. Remember, extended time in your freezer will cause freezer burn which may affect the finished mount. 6. Click on HOW TO CAPE AN ANIMAL to see an illustration and instructions on how to properly cape out an animal to be mounted. BIRDS 1. If you intend to mount a bird you are hunting, avoid using large shot that will severely damage the specimen (a Taxidermist can only work with what he is given). Also, avoid close shots if at all possible, for obvious reasons. If you hunt with dogs, do not let the dog mouth the bird excessively, if at all. 2. Upon retrieval of the bird, pack the mouth and nostrils with cotton or toilet tissue. This will keep blood and body fluids off the feathers. Also, clean as much blood off the feathers as you can. This will help prevent staining of the feathers and bacteria growth, which promotes slippage. 3. Never place a bird to be mounted in your game bag. At this point, the less damage we inflict upon the specimen, the better off we will be in the long run. 4. If you can't get the bird to the Taxidermist immediately, place the bird head first into a pair of your wife's old pantie hoses (this keeps the feathers lying flat and secure to the body), place into two plastic bags, seal and place in your freezer. 5. Get the bird to a Taxidermist as soon as possible. Keeping the bird in your freezer for an extended period of time could result in freezer burn of the feet and facial areas, and this could affect the overall appearance of your finished mount. FISH 1. First and foremost, DO NOT GUT THE FISH. Do not cut the fish anywhere. 2. Take photos of the fresh fish, if possible, to ensure the Taxidermist has accurate information to refer back to when it's time to paint the fish. 3. Get the fish on ice as soon as possible. 4. If you can't get the fish to a Taxidermist immediately, wrap the fish in a wet towel or wet newspaper, place inside two plastic bags, seal, and place in the freezer as flat as possible. 5. Get the fish to a Taxidermist as soon as possible. Keeping the fish in your freezer for an extended period of time could result in freezer burn of the fins and the fish itself, and this could affect the overall appearance of your finished mount. SNAKES 1. Safety is paramount when dealing with these critters. 2. You can't bash in the head of the snake and expect to have an acceptable looking mount in the end. SO DON'T DO THIS. 3. Take the live snake and place it in a tow sack or other suitable container. I prefer to use a five gallon tin bucket that one would buy popcorn in. Place the lid securely on the bucket and place the bucket into your freezer. Freezing the snake alive may sound cruel but this is the best way of dispatching the beast and most importantly, the safest way for you. I prefer to leave the snake in the freezer for two days before removing it from the bucket. Contrary to popular belief, once a snake is frozen, it is dead. It will not thaw out and come back to life. Dead is dead. The snake will be coiled up very tightly, which makes for a nice compact package that doesn't take up much freezer space. You can then place the snake in two plastic bags, seal it tightly and return it to the freezer. 4. Get the snake to the Taxidermist as soon as you can to avoid freezer burn and possible damage to the specimen. 5. Remember, safety is foremost when dealing with these things. No mount is worth getting snake bit over. LIFE SIZE 1. If you harvest an animal you intend to have mounted life size, do not skin or make any incisions of any kind. 2. Clean as much blood as possible from the specimen and keep it as dry as possible. 3. Put the specimen on ice as soon as possible. 4. If you can't get it to the Taxidermist immediately and choose to store it in your freezer, wrap the feet (individually) with a plastic bag and tape it securely to prevent air from getting to the feet. Also, wrap the head with a plastic bag and tape securely (this will help to prevent freezer burn to the extremities of the specimen). Once this is done, double bag the entire specimen and place it in your freezer. ANTLER MOUNT 1. Do not remove the antlers from the skull. 2. If you cannot deliver the specimen to your Taxidermist immediately, simply double bag the entire head and place it into your freezer. Freezer burn is irrelevant in this case. EUROPEAN MOUNT 1. Simply remove the head of the specimen and deliver to your Taxidermist or double bag the entire head and place it into your freezer. Long term storage is not recommended because freezer burn will literally weld the skin to the skull, making it very difficult to remove. This could result in scar damage to the finished piece. I hope this information has been helpful. If you have any further questions, please contact FLESHNER TAXIDERMY for assistance.

Some of our favorite links

fleshnertaxidermy — Wed, 04 Oct 2006 12:38:55 CDT

http://www.yahoo.com/

http://trapperman.com/

http://www.nra.org/ (National Rifle Association)

http://www.nationaltaxidermists.com/

http://outdoordreams.proboards104.com/index.cgi

http://fleshnertaxi.proboards106.com/index.cgi
(my sportsmens forum)